How to Install an Electric Heat Pump Water Heater | Ask This Old House
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Ask This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey travels to Celebration, Florida to help a homeowner select and install the right electric water heater
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Time: 3-4 hours
Cost: $1000
Skill Level: Moderate
Tools List for Installing an Electric Heat Pump:
Hose
Pipe cutters
Shopping List:
Electric heat pump water heater
Pipe and fittings to match existing water pipes
Correct adhesives for existing pipes (PVC glue, solder and flux, etc.)
Vacuum valve
T&P valve
Steps:
1. Shut the power off to the electric water heater and shut off the main water supply to the house.
2. Connect a hose to the bottom of the tank and run the hose to outside. Drain the old water heater.
3. Use the pipe cutters to cut the pipes to the water heater and remove it.
4. Put the new heat pump water heater into place.
5. Connect the new water heater to the main water supply using the appropriate size and type of pipes to match the existing water line.
6. Install a vacuum valve near the top of the water heater to prevent the water heater from collapsing in on itself in case it is turned off.
7. Be sure that the water heater has a T&P valve and that it is correctly installed.
8. Some installations may require an expansion valve or expansion tank.
9. Turn the water and the electricity back on.
Resources:
Richard installed the Voltex® Hybrid Electric Heat Pump water heater, manufactured by A.O. Smith (https://www.hotwater.com/) to save electricity over a conventional tank style water heater.
The other materials used for this project, including PVC piping, PVC glue, pipe cutters, and wrenches can all be found at home centers.
In the workshop, Richard discusses which homeowners should consider a whole-house electric tankless. Expert assistance with this portion was provided by Bosch Thermotechnology (https://www.bosch-climate.us/).
Expert assistance with this segment was provided by Jim’s Plumbing and Irrigation of Orlando, Florida.
About Ask This Old House TV:
Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we’re ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers—and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O’Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook.
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How to Install an Electric Heat Pump Water Heater | Ask This Old House
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Ummm……know what else would save money? Having the right sized water tank! That tank is HUGE! 2-people home only requires like a 40-50 gallon tank. What's that one, at least 100? Total waste of money!
you should kiss that ole AO Smith on the lips…20 years….and she done good. 🙂 LOL
You've lost all your savings if anything happens to the compressor on that thing.
Why aren't there any basements in Florida? Wouldn't you want a basement, and a deep one at that, in a region prone to hurricanes?
Vacuum release valve? Really? The system is pressurized to 30-40 PSI. If you need that valve it is because a big bomb went off nearby or a black hole opened. Both of which if it suck the system from 30-40 PSI to negative pressure that is a problem the least of your problems is the water heater "collapsing."
I am thinking of putting one of these in my garage in NC. In the summer obviously the garage gets hot no issue, but in the winter the garage can get cold – sometimes well below freezing for several nights in a row. What happens in that case, I suppose the backup elements would kick in and heat the water?
He seems to go with this solution a lot. I'm wondering if he'd ever recommend a tankless electric heater solution – e.g. plenty of power and a solar roof.
I am a Canadian homeowner. I watched the above video and realized that there is not benefit to me, in fact, it is a negative benefit, and here is why.
Our building is electrically heated. We are living in an area where the winter temperature drops to -20F overnight, and perhaps to -10F for days, during mid-january to March..
Any heat in the house came from electrical heating, so the heatpump to transfer the room heat to the water tank is obtained from electrical heaters.
Our hot water tanks (60 Gallon size), are very well insulated, and we do install a loop connection to act as a heat-trap. It is done for both the cold and hot water lines.
We could benefit from a dual energy tank for the months of May through mid October. But….
On the negative side of using the above dual energy tank,, our insurance companies will not insure a home for hot water leaks if the tank is more than 10 years old, even though the magnesium rods are replaced every two years. It is a policy common to all the insurers.
We generally get 20 years out of a new glass lined tank. Our newer tank models have three heater elements, with different wattage ratings. For converting to those tanks, the electric company covers about 1/3rd of the purchase price.
By the way, if the top element is heating, the other two are off. When the top of the tank reaches temperature, it enables the middle element, and when the middle of the tank reaches temprature, the lower element is turned on. Each element has a thermostat set for 50C (125F.). A full tank of very cold water can be heated to temperature within three hours.
Bottom line, the above tank in the video, is great for geographic areas where winters are mild and summers are quite hot. Our tanks are located inside a furnace room within the home. A fan and compressor noise is not an issue.
Hot water heat traps are simply a loop of PEX or a flexible loop, between the tank and the home line, preventing convection exchange of heated water up into the house, with the room temperature water. That convection occurs when the taps are all turned off.
Did he say hot water heater? What is that?
I have A.O. Smith water heater that’s 30 years old, replacing this weekend with hybrid. I’m confident it will reduce my electric consumption!