How to Install a Moen Posi-Temp Shower Valve…PEX and Copper Pipes
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Nice clear audio on red=hot, blue=cold. obviously.
Mumbling at crucial step on how to set depth of mud ring vs finished tile surface.
Something to keep in mind, if the branch going out the top of the mix valve to the shower head isn't long enough, you'll have water leak out the shower head even if the stopper to the tub spout is open. It has to do with how much pressure you have in your lines. Sometimes there's a bit more water in the lines that can come out of the tub spout so it'll want to go up that too pipe. If it's long enough, the water stack gets heavy enough to push back down and prevent it from spilling out the top. Just go higher, rather than lower on your shower head. Source: am not a plumber, I'm a carpenter. But I have seen this happen on 2 jobs before and asked a plumber how to stop it.
Great video. To the point. Didnt talk like we were retards. Layed out every detail. Thanks.
I noticed behind the tub he has a vent valve for the tub they do need to every once in awhile to need to be access to replace so you're going to destroy your tub to replace it every couple years!!
This made my head hurt , too much Teflon tape ,not enough rector seal. Soldering job was a hack. Crimps suck , expansion is the only way to go on pex. A 2×4 backer board is more rigid & insets the valve body at the he perfect surface distance for the tile board & tile. Also you can use a 1/2" drop eared 90° for the spout just like a shower head . To each his own
You can use pex for the tub spout if you use a drop ear mounted to a wall brace for support.
Super easy installation except==>allmy.tips/MoenTshower?sS<<Â Â that there was no indication I might experience a problem with the mounting holes in the large face plate lining up with the existing mounting holes in the rough in valve because I used the existing rough in valve. After a phone call to Moen, I simply paid a visit to my local Ferguson Supply center and found an adapter plate that took care of this problem. People at moen are real professional.
Thanks good stuff.
The crimps rings were practically flush to the brass fittings. They should be 1/4" away from the flange. I guess that's why you guys became experts in pressure testing. Burned a few times with bad crimps possibly ? I might crimp too carefully, but I hold the crimper closed for a second before releasing to ensure even pressure on the ring. Rediculous?