How to Seal and Insulate Can Lights
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Can lights (or recessed lights) became so popular in recent years that many new homes are built with them, so they are already installed when the homeowners move in.
Compared to other common overhead features, can lights are easier to clean and maintain, and the recessed light output helps divide the space, define task areas, and highlight artwork and architectural features. Can lights are also especially valuable in low ceiling areas.
For all the reasons above, new and newly remodeled homes tend to have this type of recessed lighting feature in at least some of the rooms. Some have them all through the house.
There is only one problem concerning can lights: they can be a huge source of energy loss year round!
Older fixtures — especially those installed before 2004 — were built with little to no regard to energy efficiency, and have plenty of holes and gaps to allow conditioned air from the living space to escape into the attic.
How much energy can you lose? Using high-tech home energy diagnostic equipment and procedures, such as a blower door test and thermal imaging camera, Larry Janesky, owner and founder of Dr. Energy Saver, demonstrates just how much energy is lost through the gaps left in and around can lights.
He also demonstrates how to simply and quickly stop air leakages through can lights using covers specifically designed for this purpose. There are many different types of can light covers, and in some cases, an energy conservation expert can even build a custom cover, using fire-retardant materials. In this particular home, a rockwool cover was used, and spray foam insulation was applied to seal air leakages and secure it in place.
If you suspect energy waste through canned lights or any other area or fixture of your home, call Dr. Energy Saver for a complete home energy evaluation and let us help create an energy-efficient home that is at the same time comfortable and affordable to own.
For more tips on how to save money and energy at home, visit our website or watch other episodes of Dr. Energy Saver’s “On The Job” videos!
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I noticed in every video I watched nobody ever talks about the type of spray foam or sealant (brand or fire/mold/water resistant). This should be an important talking point being that you are using a fire retardant cover but not fire retardant foam. Some say it's not in direct contact but the heat does come in contact with the foam/sealant when the gaps are filled.
For those that care, pay attention to warranty on the foam/sealant. I found both have little to no warranty and some don't accept any responsibility even if their product fails. Some have a 1.5 year warranty. I'm a do it yourselfer that has done all my own research and found the following, DAP brand has a "Fire Block" spray foam and caulk which I find lacking in product warranty. There is 1 DAP product that I chose to use on my electrical outlets , HIGH TEMP 100% RTV SILICONE SEALANT. The 10.3 fl. oz. caulk tube has a red tip and it is hard to find, even in my major city, but I did find a place that will special order it at $9.99 a tube. Again, I'm no spokesperson but I will not go cheap when it comes to my families safety even though I'm a penny pincher.
If you completely cover the fixture, How does the heat escape from the lightbulb so the thermal switch doesn't get damaged?
I wish there was a company like this in Canada.
Neighbors carbon filter smell is leaking through the light fixtures. This problem just got solve! Thank you Doctor!
That can light cover is really easy solution but what if you don't have an attic and you can't get to it. How can you deal it from the inside of the house? Caulk? Will that catch on fire or melt causing damage?
Thanks Larry…
They wanted $6,000+ to insulate the lower and upper attic of my Cape Cod style home with cellulose.
I have a vaulted ceiling with no attic above, what's the altenrative
I think you did a good job and to all you naysaying knuckleheads it's better then ripping your entire freaking ceiling out good job
4:14 The answer to the video title