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How to Safely Replace a Ceiling Light | Ask This Old House

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By Quentin Peters
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Ask This Old House master electrician Heath Eastman clarifies the temperature rating system for ceiling lights and then installs one for a homeowner

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Time: 2-3 hours
Cost: $200
Skill Level: Expert

Tools List for Replacing a Ceiling Light:
Screwdriver [https://amzn.to/2tKpFWn]
Pliers [https://amzn.to/2Guemod]

Shopping List:
Temperature-Rated ceiling light [https://amzn.to/2TQwiRF]
NM-B cable [https://amzn.to/2v9sxwf]
Junction box [https://amzn.to/2Rm99oI]
Wire nuts [https://amzn.to/2RF7464]

Steps:
1. Heath starts by explaining why ceiling fixtures are temperature rated and what that means:
a. Houses built before 1985 used wires that could withstand temperatures up to 60 degrees Celsius.
b. Certain lightbulbs generate more heat than 60 degrees, so over time, those wires could fray and crack, causing an arc, which could create a fire.
c. After 1985, they changed the code so that wires needed to be rated to withstand temperatures up to 90 degrees Celsius, which is common for most modern fixtures.
d. To determine which type of wiring you have, look at the cable.
i. Cloth wire is not rated for 90 degrees.
ii. Plastic wire with the words “Type NM” printed on them are rated up to 60 degrees.
iii. Plastic wire with the words “Type NM-B” printed on them are rated up to 90 degrees.
2. Shut the power off at the breaker.
3. Remove the old light fixture using a screwdriver. The wiring will need to be disconnected before pulling it from the ceiling.
4. Push the old wiring out through the box and into the ceiling.
5. Cut a section of the old wiring away from the fixture.
6. Wire the new NM-B cable to the old wiring inside of a junction box.
7. Fish the new cable through the electrical box and mount the electrical box to the ceiling.
8. Wire the new light to the new cable using a pair of pliers and wire nuts.
9. Mount the new light to the electrical box on the ceiling.
10. Turn the power back on.

Resources:
Heath installed the 12-inch Oil Rubbed Bronze 2-Light Ceiling Light, manufactured by Hinkley Lighting [https://amzn.to/2RmFoUH].

Expert assistance with this segment was provided by Eaton and Eastman Electric (http://www.eatonandeastmanelectric.com/).

About Ask This Old House TV:
From the makers of This Old House, America’s first and most trusted home improvement show,Ask This Old Houseanswersthe steady stream of home improvement questions askedby viewersacross the United States.Covering topicsfrom landscaping toelectrical to HVAC and plumbingto painting and more.Ask This Old House features the expertsfrom This Old House, includinggeneral contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, landscape contractor Jenn Nawada, master carpenter Norm Abram,and host Kevin O’Connor. Ask This Old House helps you protect and preserve your greatest investment—your home.

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How to Safely Replace a Ceiling Light | Ask This Old House
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(Visited 4 times, 1 visits today)
60 degrees Celsius7-10 minutes90 degrees CelsiusAsk This Old HouseAsk this old house videosceiling lightceiling lightsdiyDIY IdeasEastmanelectricalHeath Eastmanhome improvementhomeownerHow To BuildHow to clipsHow To FixHow To InstallHow to videosLightingmaster electricianPlastic wirerenovationRenovation Ideasscrewdrivertemperature ratingtemperature rating systemThis Old HouseThis Old house videosType NMType NM-B

About The Author

Quentin Peters

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Comment (0)

  6. When you see the old-style cloth wiring how old is it before you need a full rewire?. All wire brakes down over time, and I was told you needed to replace all wire that is over 25 years old.

  8. The wiring standard is a little different in Canada. In Canada, it is called NMD (Non Metallic Dry) cable. NMD-1 (no ground) and NMD-3 (with ground) are rated for 60 C, NMD-6 is rated for 75 C, and NMD-7 (Later renamed NMD 90) is rated at 90 C. There also exists NMD-7 wire with cloth sheathing, which can be hard to distinguish from NMD-3. The text on the cable will indicate the temperature rating.

  9. My only question is: Why did he feel the need to replace the existing light box? With plenty of access above, why not just push the existing wires out of the existing box, make your connections in the new junction boxes, and feed your new switch-leg wire into the existing box and pop penny blanks in the unused holes? He didn't say anything about the existing box needing to be replaced.

  11. The new electrician seems to know his sh*t, but good god is he boring. Will it kill him to smile every once in a while? Scott was definitely more charismatic.

  14. In Chicago, we never shut the breakers, we plow thru a few good shocks and it's done, no biggie….now if I could only move it over tree qwata….

  23. why do some electricians use the cheapest stuff. Those connectors are garbage and those standard wire nuts can take a hike. No need to use the second ground screw either superhero.

  24. For those that don't get it. The wire size was still the same… It was the rating on the insulation around the conductors..So the Amperage rating is the same..

  25. Interesting solution.

    My in laws once asked me to change a fixture. I took the old one down and the insulation was all crispy – they put 100 watt bulbs in and the fixture said 60 watts max. I could only tape off the old wires.

  26. I see TOH left out the important stuff like they usually do. Watched the show on TV and was hoping video was better. I get the two new boxes, BUT how is the new boxes then connected together and finally to the light box? Where is the jumper he talks about?

  27. The last segment was good, however I was surprised to see the 12 gauge wire (yellow) without an explanation. The update the the light in the first part used 14 gauge and it looked like all the other wiring in both segments was 14 gauge. The point was to show that it was the newer version, now someone is sure to think that yellow means the new rating equals yellow. I can see someone making the rewire with 14 gauge original, add a section of 12 gauge and leave everyone wondering what the real amperage rating is on the circuit. Should’ve stuck to 14 gauge all the way through.

  28. just throw the fixture up there! come on people! There is no bulb on the market with a medium base that can generate the heat required to damage that wire. incandescent bulbs above 60 degrees have been discontinued. go look….. ill wait. Just a manufacture covering their butts.

  29. How bout just don’t use a bulb ur not supposed to save u 800$ for an electrician all those trades people meaning electricians plumbers ect. are crooks

  32. Aluminum + copper connected together? Really? There should be no direct connection between these type of wires. Why not using any wago-like connectors with a metal cap on a soft wire?

  34. I hate how they make it seem like it’s harder than it is. No you don’t have to shut the breaker off, replace the wire unless requiring the whole house don’t just replace the wire to a light. , just a way to rip people off extra 100$

  36. 3:00 I wish it would have been more video of this part of the project. I didn't quite understand what they were talking about with the junction boxes and the "jumper".

  37. Do those bulbs really glow that orange? I know the old ones do but I didn't expect the new ones to be the same. Who would want orange light like that?

  38. These videos would be much more helpful to include an approximate ball park price to have an electrician come out and do this work. Yes, I know each job is different and electricians charge different amounts, but at least having an idea on price may keep home owners from doing this job themselves and burning down their own house. You can also tell us if people are allowed to wire their own homes in different states, or at least where or who we can check those laws with.

  43. All this just in case someday somebody installs a 100w bulb in a fixture they obviously were not meant for in a location they are obviously not needed. The existing wiring was fine for the LED, and 100w and higher incandescent bulbs have been banned. The chances of somebody installing one there are next to nothing. Also the new fixture obviously has some serious heat insulation on the backside. I bet that sticker is just some random fake/misunderstood chinese translation. (1965 isn't a cut off year for anything)

    The fixture they were replacing also had typical screw in style bulbs, which could have been changed to 100w although highly unlikely. It worked just fine.

  48. I mean they should replace all that old wire in their home, however to replace a bit of it on the assumption that people will put in a bulb that is outlawed in significant parts of the modern/western world is a bit weird.

  50. What do you electricians think, about using a (nonmetallic sheathed cable interconnector devices) 2020 NFPA 70 334.40(B) in this situation, it would of saved time and material ?
    The electrician would only of had to go into the attic once to determine that the cables were exposed, head back down, remove light box attach two interconnect devices too pre-existing nm cable than to nm-b cable insulated conductor rated at 90 degrees C. Leave devices in attic exposed, reinstall new nm-b cable into outlet light box and install luminaire?

  54. You can’t just look at the color of the Romex sheathing because Romex manufactured before 2003 had no sheathing color code.14,12 and 10 awg cables all had a white sheathing

  56. I just screwed the ground wire with one of the mounting screws instead of using the green screw. Should i reinstall? I don't have a ground wire coming out of my junction box which is metal

  62. I asked my dad for help, but I watched the video prior to our task, and it made me able to troubleshoot and my dad was impressed by my trouble solving qualities ! what a beautiful father-daughter moment we had <3

  65. What's with all of these convenient crawl spaces, wires actually correctly color coded (and the colors not faded), and wire you can easily bend with your fingers (and isn't brittle or stranded?)

  66. I have 2 wire cloth that's the same color. I read you can take an extension cord, plug it in. Then touch a multi meter to the other end of the extension cord ground to Then a probe to each wire to see which one is positive. I had a 1 bulb chandelier and while taking down a curtain rod, I hit the wires and cut it in half when I spun around. Luckily I was holding onto the fabric when the metal rod hit the wires. It broke so easy. I think I'll run a ground to a vent pipe in my attic. It's a pain getting up there so I haven't checked the box yet. I hate climbing through insulation lol

  67. This is why people don’t like “professionals” this poor sucker had to pay extra for the wiring that’s never going to be necessary all because “somebody could put too hot of a bulb in here” 1. Try finding an incandescent bulb in the United States. 2. The fixture that’s there already is literally the same issue, it just doesn’t have the sticker

  74. Sorry, too specific to a person's particular sub-question about their situation of old wiring but you titled this episode with a general common task and didn't talk your way through the basics of replacing a ceiling light. Usually "This Old House" does a better job of talking their way through connections and steps.

  77. Almost felt I could do this until it came to the part where I would need to go into the attic crawl space. Ugh, now to hire someone to do that part. Great video though.

  78. My fixture has 2 black wires and 2 white, one from each side. They aren't connected with splice… do I twist them together with the single black wire in ceiling and cap?

  80. My problem is, the bulb came Off in the base and got stuck. Got it out, but Broke the plastic housing (Right side) for the bulb, and now the Opposite side (Left) doesn't want to work either.
    The right one was Flickery, so I'm wondering if the wiring for that light was shot somehow.

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