How to Quiet Noisy Baseboard Heat | Ask This Old House

Ask This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey helps a homeowner diagnose and solve a baseboard hot water system that makes noise.

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Richard found the origin of the noise coming from forced hot water return pipe. The original installer didn’t account for the expansion and contraction so when the heat turned on, the copper return line expanded into the drywall, causing a tapping noise.

For every 100 feet of copper pipe, the pipe can expand or contract between 1-2 inches.

Richard was able to quiet the noisy baseboard heating system by removing two inches of copper pipe from the return line, giving space for the pipe to expand and contract without rubbing or touching on the drywall.

Time: 1 hour
Cost: $75
Skill Level: Moderate

Tools List for Silencing Noisy Baseboard Heating:
Small pipe cutter
Plumber’s sandpaper
Torch

Shopping List:
Copper coupling
Flux
Solder

Steps:
1. Remove the baseboard covers to see how the piping is run. Copper pipe will expand when heated, so look for places where the pipe is too close to walls or corners to allow for proper expansion.
2. Before modifying any piping, close the valves for the zone that needs repair.
3. Drain down enough water to ensure the work area will be dry.
4. Clean the pipe before cutting it using plumber’s sandpaper.
5. Use a small tubing cutter to cut the existing pipe.
6. Determine how much pipe needs to be removed to allow expansion room and cut that using the tubing cutter.
7. Add flux to the cut pipe and a cleaned copper coupling.
8. Apply heat with a torch and when the flux bubbles, touch the solder to the joint to make a watertight connection.

Resources:
The copper fittings, solder, and torch used to fix the noisy baseboard heating system can be found at a home center.

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Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we’re ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers—and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O’Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook.

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How to Quiet Noisy Baseboard Heat | Ask This Old House
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  1. ok guys, you've made three videos like this now and they ALL include return pipes that are pressed against a wall… MY system is a continuous loop so I have ZERO return pipe issues and yet, I still have a TON OF NOISE! I've addressed all the standard troubleshooting issues and yet it's still a symphony of noise every night. What's the deal!?

  2. Half right. What you should have done is inserted an expansion coupling instead of the straight coupling. We normally fit them in each change of direction and they have a bracket that you fix to the wall and the elbow allows the pipe to expand/contract within the fitting. And start using a pipe slice instead of these mini cutters, haven’t used one of these for years.

  3. is it just me or would it have been smart to install a small U of pipe to allow expansion and contraction and break up the long runs? I seem to remember that is how you normally do long runs of piping, but it may be overkill here

  4. 180 degree water isn't superheated water. It's heated water…
    su·per·heat
    /ˌso͞opərˈhēt/
    PHYSICS
    verb1.heat (a liquid) under pressure above its boiling point without vaporization.
    noun1.the excess of temperature of a vapor above its temperature of saturation.

  5. Same thing happens with the copper soil stack in my house. Have a hot shower it creaks and bangs, as it cools off or if you flush the throne or run cold water you can hear the pipe backing off whatever it is pushing on.

  6. When the heat comes on in our house, there's a noise like a machine gun that reverberates through the whole house. I found a spot where the main heating trunk line goes through a hole in a steel I-beam, but has deflected and is resting and rubbing on the beam. That beam crosses through the entire house.

  7. At this heating system( I have that myself) wherever the copper pipe hits or moves on some kind of holder/bracket specificially if it hits any metal,it should be covert with FELT,so the pipe can easily glide back and fort without making noise. I had to do this in my house after I bought it because the noise was driving me crazy.

  8. Why didn't you reamed the pipe? Also, all the books I have read say that you should heat the pipe first and then the fitting so that you do not burn the flux out.

  9. Thats some very efficient and cheap service! Im dying with the noise in my apartment meanwhile I am afraid to call the plumber as they charged 200euro last time for changing a radiator head….

  10. I have hydronic heating in a 150-year-old farmhouse; it is mostly baseboard, but there are 6 exposed cast-iron radiators included in the loops. To mitigate the burn risk on the radiators, I run the water at 165. It's still uncomfortably hot to the touch when it is going full-bore, but not instant-burn hot. Domestic hot water comes from an indirect hot water tank, which is connected to a special connector on the control board such that when the tank calls for heat (as opposed to a zone thermostat), the boiler runs at the full 180 degrees for faster recovery.

  11. I have been watching This Old House for 40 years, and would be the last to question Richard's knowledge, but he is incorrect in his description of how this baseboard system works. The circulating pump does not push the hot water but, rather, it pulls it back to the boiler. You can prove this by feeling the pipe close to the pump moments after the thermostat calls for heat. it will be cool because the cool water in the pipe is being pulled b back to the boiler. In a minute or so the pipe will get hot as the hot water has made it back to this point. If the pump was pushing the out into the system, the pipe would turn hot immediately.

  12. I have pretty much the same boiler pipes but I hear only at times a banging noise when the upper zone shuts off. I was hoping your video mentioned banging noises.

  13. My hot water baseboard expansion probably keeps the neighbors awake at night. Wonder if the rhythmic BANGING was the genesis of heavy metal rock music?

  14. I was curious as to why Richard did not mention "bleeding " the system for air as well. When our technician services our system each year an starts it up for the season, he bleeds the system of any air.

  15. Where I live opioid addicts have broken in and stolen all of the copper pipes. And greedy developers and landlords don’t care if you complain about the loud banging and shaking under the floor of your overpriced luxury downtown apartment. All the better if you move out and they can get market rate for the next tenant. What can you do about that, THIS OLD HOUSE)!!!

  16. This guy put insolation over his radiators? Not a smart fix.

    But it seems unsafe to have hot pipes pressed against the wall. I guess 180 isn’t going to start fires but aren’t you putting heat into the wall rather than the room?

  17. Wow that’s incredible and fascinating to learn copper pipes expand with heat! I had no idea and to learn it’s a simple fix is great to know. Thanks ‘this old house’!

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