🧲Pulsed Shot Welding With Adjustable Pulse Energy – DIY

Do not try to repeat this device if you don’t know the electrical engineering and electrical safety regulations well! The author does not bear responsibility for the damage that you can cause.

This impulse spot welding works without a transformer and is connected directly to the mains. The energy of the pulse is determined by the capacitance of the storage capacitor and the voltage on this capacitor. Voltage can be monitored with a voltmeter.
Elements of the circuit: Dr1, C3, R4 can be excluded if a high-frequency thyristor is used. But high-frequency thyristors are more expensive than low-frequency thyristors. When choosing a thyristor, one must pay attention to the magnitude of the limiting pulse current. It is desirable that the thyristor can withstand a pulse of magnitude greater than 2000 Amperes.

Pulse energy:

E = C(U*√2)²/2

E – pulse energy (J)
C – capacitor capacitance (F)
U – AC voltage (V)

Pulsed Shot Welding With Adjustable Pulse Energy – DIY

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  1. Something is fundamentally wrong with what you are showing in the video. The meter shows 10 V and yet you are saying that it is 160 Volts with 252J; but we don’t know the scale so we can assume that it really is scaled to 160VDC (if you are telling us the truth) and the caps are charged to 166 VDC i.e. 250J; and then you are using this monster energy to weld the Nickel tabs to a puny battery? So what is happening with the “250J”? I also noticed that the caps are being discharged down to close to 0V which means that the full energy contained is being put into the weld. In a different video someone else (American Tech) welded the same strips using 4 x 2200uF charged to 30 VDC. 0.5*30^2*4*2200uF = 4J and he had bigger sparks coming out of the contacts. If the caps are being charged to 160VDC where is the excess energy going?
    Also if the caps are charging to 160V then that 75 Ohm limiting resistor is dissipating about 190 Watts and gets hot in 3.8 Secs (Charge time to reach 160V) which it is not. Their combined rating is not anywhere near 200Watts. And then for the fun part.. The power leads on the KP200A looks like they are about 20 mm OD, and then you connect the puny copper tips barely 3mm OD and having sharp tips. AND YOU ARE VERY CALMLY TOUCHING THE METAL STRIPS WITH YOUR FINGERS WITH 160VDC without disconnecting the mains. So what is wrong with this picture?

  2. Your schematic only shows one diode rectifying the power source half wave: 120 VAC (120/2* 1.41=84.6VDC) which your meter seems to show on the second series battery pulse welds. First weld seem to be off scale, (maybe full wave 169.2VDC ?)You state Joules adjustable but not clear where that adjustment is. Great video but please clarify. Thanks

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