Proper installation of a Rinnai condensing tankless water heater.

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• We call them combi boilers in England.
  We also run the central heating off it.
  So you have, gas in... Cold in, hot out, flow and return... A fill loop from cold to return, with a magnetic cleaner before boiler intake, a condenser pipe out.

• Hi watched all your videos on Rinnal tankless heater. We had one professionally installed by our local plumbing shop 2 years ago in January. Last winter it was very cold so the condensation line that they run to under our manufacturerd home into the craw space in into a sewer line froze off causing water to back up and spill on to the floor. This fall I corrected that and replaced the line with high quality automotive heater hose with 1/2 pumbing water pipe insulation and additional 2 layers of foam insulation where it is on in the craw space into the sewer pipe. It now seems have frozen off or perhaps the pump in the condensation tray is not working as I just noticed the tray was completely full with slime inside. I have now cleaned the pump and condensation tray to see which is not functioning. I am also thinking of heat tape on the line that runs in the crawl space to keep it perhaps from freezing. Was wondering if you know if Rinnai makes a bigger condensation tray and pump unit? Perhaps I need to replace that part? Thanks for your help and knowlege!
  You can email me at mtbyoda@outlook.com.

• In Virginia, plumbing code requires liquid combustion byproducts from fuel burning appliances to be drained into a drain, it can't be drained to the outside as you've done. I don't know where you live, but I doubt it's any different.

  Edit: I checked the 2017 Florida plumbing code, that condensate line isn't to code. You can't drain combustion byproducts onto the ground. See section 314.1.

  I'm sure this guy is an excellent plumber, but it might be prudent for him to refresh himself on plumbing and building code before he starts installing a new technology.

  If the owner ever tries to sell the house and the buyer has a competent home inspector the owner will have to get the unit up to code or install something different.

  What he should have done is install an indoor non-condensing unit. They're about 10% less efficient, but they cost about 30% less and they have no condensation if the exhaust run is short.

  Another thing he might want to consider for future installations is putting a neutralizer on the condensate line. The condensation from these units can be quite acidic and can corrode drain pipe.

• I see you do a lot of videos on the condensing units. We installed the V94IP with vertical venting. Do we need to hook up the drain at the neck? And should be use the circulator at farthest point?

• Hey Mike, first off - great videos. You are super helpful and informative.

  I have a question about this install. My home is plumbed with CPVC throughout - but there is about 15-18 inches of copper at the current WH supply and return. Can I replace this with CPVC to remedy the corrosion? Can the whole unit be plumbed using CPVC? It looks like the install in this video uses CPVC?

  Any help is appreciated. Keep up the great work...

  Installing a RU199iN soon! :)

• Rinnai or AO Smith --which do you prefer or recommend for a "Tank less" application?

• r u US based? or canada?

• what is you have a small house do you leave the plug in if not installing the bypass valve

• Hi, Mike, thanks for you show you knowledge that is very helpful.

• hI MIKE, may I ask please what can I do is the installation don't have
  return water I need to make return water or not is necessary, could you please can you give some ideal.
  thanks a lot for help me.