Some tips on the proper way to install a aluminum fuel tank in boat. Which does not include foam or fiberglass. Only Neoprene rubber, 5200 , screws, and thats it. Dont use anything that holds water like WOOD or FOAM it will cause crevice corrosion.
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good video, educational, I have question please comment, recently purchased a preowned 28.9 SEA SPORT on the first fueling had a very bad, scary experience, a very strong smell of fuel in the cabin, evidently the tank may have a hole in it. am not very experience with this problem therefore any advise will be appreciated, plan to replace the tank with a stainless steel, is that a good approach? the deck will need to be cut in order to reach the tank.. help will be much appreciated
DIY, good advice on the tank - but do check the rubber bedding strips to make sure there is no 'free carbon' in the mix? Carbon is a metal with a galvanic differential to aluminum so you'd be making a battery if you used the wrong rubber to bed.
The idea of 5200 as bedding/bonding isolation is sound but... the areas where that adhesive is used should be sanded or etched so the mill scale is gone- mill scale is galvanic and retains water vapor- not liquid but will promote corrosion flowers.
All marine tanks should have #1 a water bottoms sump for pump out of 'tank bottoms' - OR a down comer fuel draw line that is very tight tot he bottom so the bottoms can be picked up into the fuel filter bowl(s).
Also this tank is not etched so it will begin external and probably internal corrosion in few years- the explanation of crevice corrosion is accurate- but didn't include the mill scale which does the same thing- and tank bottoms will become De-aereated and acidic too.
All 5000 series aluminum tanks should be acid etched, rinsed and flushed extensively before installation. It is best practice to slope the to in a camber or 'shed' style not to be flat like t his one- where condensate can collect on the tank top.
Also fuel fill downcomer should got to within 1/2 diameter of pipe to the bottom plate to avoid burping, back slop on fill and bubbling fuel.
Where did you get the tank?? It is exactly like the one in my 1973 Mako I have lookied everywhere for one
I would have coated the tank....coal tar epoxy (3-5 coats) or better. But other than that this guys offers good very informed advice.
great stuff- ny tank was retardedly foamed into place. it was a cunt to get out! i'll try your neoprene idea...thx!
What's that black wire for near the green ? Can't fine any for mine.
I am always amazed how people with not engineers degree put their life at risk.
First a foamed tank last a lot more than 10 years (at least 20 years)
Second a fuel tank installed with those four brackets can crack very easily due to the thickness of the aluminum used in the construction.
And last the stringer are no designed for that purpose.
Please guys do yourself a favor and coat the tanks with epoxy and foam them.
West Marine, ...sells Tinned Copper Strand. it's copper wire with a coating of tin, lasts forever!!! Especially on salt water trailers !!! I've used it for years on my trailer and boat !!! also use a brand of ""self amalgamating tape"" from Lows or Home Dippo, on all your open wire connections! last for ever!! You pull and stretch this tape before wrapping around almost anything, as you wrap it it binds to itself to form a solid rubber fused wrap, will never unwrap, is water tight, as it becomes one solid plug.......cut it with a razor to remove. It's as clean as the day you wrapped the wire.......
I am ripping through electric fuel pumps on my boat. I believe my anti siphon valve is the culprit. Some people say toss it, some people say dont be a fool. If my fuel line never drops below the tank, do I need it/ Do you have any advice for using an electric fuel pump on a marine system?
DIY Boater, aside from the two hose clamps on the main (large fuel hose) did you do apply any form of sealant inside the hose to get a good leak proof seal, or are the hose clamps enough?